Today, after riding the continuous current of exploration, it is hard to believe that there could be more in store but I am finding that every day in Burma is a navigational nirvana.
My bungalow at Aya Thar Udi Golf Resort
Women Caddies of Burma
Aya Thar Udi Golf Resort is the lovely accommodations for the Inle Lake part of the trip. Upon arriving, we were all taken aback at seeing lady caddies accompanying the foursomes on the course complete with woven hats barring the sun. Another group of smiling women holding trays of orange yellowish juice reminiscent of Tang greeted us as we descended from the bus. A-framed wooden cabanas lie scattered along a meandering trail replete with native scraggy pines. After an event filled day on the lake, retiring to the dining room of the golf resort to devour new delicacies was on par. One of the foods considered a Burmese staple is the Fermented Tea Leaf Salad. I had yet to try it and was anxiously awaiting the opportunity to find it on a menu--well tonight is the night. The tea leaves after being steeped, drained and refrigerated for up to 24 hours get combined in a brine consisting of garlic paste, sesame oil, ginger, salt, lime, scallions, cilantro and kale. All the contents sit covered in a dark cool space unrefrigerated. After 2 days of marinating, the tea leaf mixture is ready to be added to toasted sesame and pumpkin seeds along with roasted soy beans and a splash of fish oil. Tomatoes, peppers and dried shrimp can also be a part of the salad if one so desires. The flavors are fabulous, melding together with the various crunchy bits rounding out the textures quite nicely. Definitely a dish I will try to recreate at home.
Fermented Tea Leaf Salad-YUM! Doesn't photograph as well as it tastes
The lovely lake air that enveloped my being and gave me new breath will hopefully create dreams of the “Excellent Extravaganza” in my head reminding me of Inle and allowing me to sleep peacefully and sound.
Awaking from wonderful zzzzz’s, a new day of discovery starts at the handmade Paper Umbrella Factory. The remarkable process begins with the bark of the mulberry tree as it is soaked in water until becoming malleable and rolled into a ball. The continuous pounding with a wooden mallet allows the fibers to break down enabling it to be stretched across a bamboo frame. Decorative touches are added with flower petals, leaves and herbs. The rack is then tilted and angled to absorb the warmth of the sun. With the drying of the paper complete, it is now peeled from the casing to be attached to the bamboo spokes and handle. Tiny parasols measuring about a foot all the way up to picnic table size versions are made by the talented craftsmen and available for purchase. Yes, I of course had to buy some small specimens for my favorite munchkins.
Pounding the wet mulberry bark
Adorned with petals and leaves
Drying
Making all the mechanical parts
Wood Lathe the Burmese way powered by leg, longyi and bamboo
Tools of the handmade umbrella trade made complete with adorable woven seat cushion
Umbrellas hanging in all sizes and colors
Craftsmanship openly displayed
The place scheduled for eating lunch was unfortunately closed and the establishment we ended up at was a little less than this foodie's number one choice. Many ate bowls of rice or corn. I passed and proceeded to dive into my stash of Buc-ee's Beef Jerky that had accompanied me on the trip for such a time as this. For the record, I did share. Someone popped into a convenience store of sorts after lunch and bought several bags of Burmese potato chips that were passed down the rows of the bus and polished off. I don't know what type of oil they use, but they are greasy, crispy and scrumptious!
BUC-EE'S does Burma, I am sure it is a first!
Potato Chips Burmese Style
Stopping at the pinnacle of the town of Taunggyi, another Buddhist pagoda sits watch over the distant sprawling slopes. A casual peruse around the perimeter with a few photo ops and then we continued sharing our personal stories as the wheels on the bus go round and round.
The gate to enter the summit overlooking the town of Taunggyi
Just as the water moved us back and forth and in and out, the roads of Shan State do the same. The panoramic views are grand in every direction weaving through the undulating hills like a needle and thread. Each bend in the road reveals a stitch in the tapestry more brilliant and fascinating than the one just glimpsed before. A patch of young women with Thanaka painted faces cover their bodies from head to toe trying to keep out the blazing sun while repairing roads as a male foreman snoozes feet away. Turn your head and glance at the perfect posture balancing a bevy of items effortlessly while walking on uneven terrain like it was air.
Road work with women power
Every stitch is remarkable in this tapestry called Myanmar
No hands, perfectly balanced
Eggs Anyone?
Just a bundle of wood on the head
We were told of caves a mere 45 minutes away that we might find enjoyable and of course wanting to add to the already exhilarating adventure, our group was up for the challenge. The ebb and flow of the bus after one hour and a half was enough to make us want to rethink our arrival at the Buddhist Caves, especially pondering the fact that we would be traversing the same territory on the return trip. Welcomed by bright flashing electronic signage (not quite what I expected) and Buddhist monks seated on chairs behind a long banquet table outside the entrance, a fee the equivalent of $10 was paid. Our group negotiated a group rate, since we didn't even think there was a charge. Stepping through the passageway, we entered the land of stalactites-Buddhist style. Once again, Buddhists figures of every shape, size and color adorned the crevices and dripping stones. Miniatures of monks or nuns walking one behind the other in long lines would periodically sneak out around a rock. Most of the caverns were a muted grayish, carmely brown color with pockets of darkness leeching out where the dangling lights could not illuminate. Treading around the puddles, you feel large drops of water as they plop on the top of your head. Occasionally, you would encounter the wandering monk or worshiper with flowers in hand. The caves themselves are ok, but not as magnificent as the ones you have seen that tower way above you with shimmering colors jutting down. The amazing part is pondering how these huge statues were erected among the hanging stalactites. After a pit stop at the non-western toilets nestled over the bridge between the mountains, we were off again on our tilt-a-whirl bus ride.
Stalactites
Pictures (I assume) of important monks in the region
Stalactites with seated statues of monks perched here and there
A worshiper with tribal head covering
Single file replicas of monks carrying rice bowls
Reclining Buddha on the rocks
The sunset is stunning as the tour bus continues to sway and swerve making its way to the final stop on our last day here in the Shan State, Aythaya Vineyards. The open air restaurant overlooks the meticulous rows of grape arbors that grow following the curvature of the rolling landscape. This area is definitely known for its agricultural abilities yet the Burmese Wine Trade is a relatively new endeavor in these parts and can definitely be tasted as such. This vineyard was started in 1998 by some European investors and there are a few more vineyard ventures dotting the fertile soil nearby as well. The quiet relaxed setting with splendid views added to the deliciousness of our food and gave a perfect closure to this idyllic land of alluring delights.
Sunset in Shan State
Aythaya Vineyard
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