SPECIAL OF EGG

The Ayarwaddy River from which our hotel takes its name affords its guests a terrific view of said waters and is where the second day of touring commences. Literally across the road from where we are staying is a steep slope packed with blue plastic sandbags on which one precariously slides down in order to walk the plank and board a vessel for voyaging the river. Little children hoping for a tip extend a hand to help. Makeshift handrails instantly appear in order to keep you from taking an unwanted plunge. The boatmen use the same long bamboo handrails as leverage to push off and navigate around the other tightly wedged in boats. The color palette of these cruisers seems to follow the Myanmar flag of green, red, yellow and white, a very popular theme carried throughout Burma on many things. The construction is a bit rickety, but secure (I think) combining Home Depot like spindles with random wood pieces and rubber tire bumpers. 

Everyone made it on board without incident

Everyone made it on board without incident

A very snug boat parking lot, a bit like the tie ups on my lake

A very snug boat parking lot, a bit like the tie ups on my lake

I have a new appreciation for Bamboo; it is the "go to" for everything

I have a new appreciation for Bamboo; it is the "go to" for everything

Casting off in LONGyi's, I will never complain about docking my boat ever again

Casting off in LONGyi's, I will never complain about docking my boat ever again

The river is calm, the mid dawn air is crisp and the sun is brightly beaming its welcoming rays upon our skin as we recline on the upper deck. The sights on the shoreline include small tucked in huts with tarp roofs and laundry strung about like newly spun spider webs from the night, displaying their catch. Our boat effortlessly continues motoring up the river, passing pockets of sprouting vegetation scattered in the middle of the waterway. It is easy to spot the golden pagodas dotting the landscape, as their brilliance shines out from the dusty brown grassy hillsides.

Jammed

Jammed

Our hotel beyond the banks revealing the great view from the rooftop lounge

Our hotel beyond the banks revealing the great view from the rooftop lounge

The "Bricka" in the distance, protruding pagodas and growing greenery in our path

The "Bricka" in the distance, protruding pagodas and growing greenery in our path

Flowing with ease up the Ayarwaddy seven miles from Mandalay, we find ourselves floating into Mingun 45 minutes later.  Mingun is known for its unfinished pagoda that was started in 1790 and was projected to be 490 feet tall. At its non completion, it only measures 150 feet in height. It would have been the biggest pagoda on the planet if construction would have continued.  The structure, left incomplete, is still considered to be the world's largest pile of bricks, so our commentator called it the "Bricka" as in the Mecca of Bricks.  An earthquake from 1839 reveals many cracks in the structure. King Bodawpaya also commissioned a 90 ton cast grand bell to accompany the great stupa, unfortunately it was never hung. However, it does reside a few minutes walk from the temple and is the world's largest ringing bell. When I say gigantic bell, I mean you can stand inside of it, which I did.

Disembarking in Mingun. Look, NO HANDS!

Disembarking in Mingun. Look, NO HANDS!

The "Bricka" with some Cracka's

The "Bricka" with some Cracka's

Flowers for sale to take as an offering up to the Buddha

Flowers for sale to take as an offering up to the Buddha

Entrance to the "Bricka" to see Buddha

Entrance to the "Bricka" to see Buddha

Three Wheelers of Mingun for perusing World's Largest Brick Pile and Ringing Bell

Three Wheelers of Mingun for perusing World's Largest Brick Pile and Ringing Bell

World's LARGEST ringing bell in Mingun

World's LARGEST ringing bell in Mingun

Miniature Bell Ringers

Miniature Bell Ringers

The ole ring the bell with a bamboo stick when you have done a good deed

The ole ring the bell with a bamboo stick when you have done a good deed

Ice cream treats by the Big Bell. Unfortunately, Burma hasn't received the memo on Red Dye #2

Ice cream treats by the Big Bell. Unfortunately, Burma hasn't received the memo on Red Dye #2

The admiration of the huge bell was followed by wandering through some tourists traps where eager shopkeepers definitely wanted our business and we happily got snared. As we browsed and negotiated trying to use the limited Burmese language skills of Ben Lou Leh (how much does it cost), the smells of unknown foods kissed our noses.

Paintings for sale

Paintings for sale

Marionette Puppets are an extremely popular buy as puppet shows are prevalent

Marionette Puppets are an extremely popular buy as puppet shows are prevalent

Would you like to buy a Marboro Hat? Not to be confused with a Marlboro Hat. No worry of trademark infringement here.

Would you like to buy a Marboro Hat? Not to be confused with a Marlboro Hat. No worry of trademark infringement here.

Hanging out in Mom's hat shop

Hanging out in Mom's hat shop

Fried Something?

Fried Something?

Bubbling Something?

Bubbling Something?

U-turning back towards Mandalay, taking one last glimpse from the deck surveying the scenery out on the expansive rippling waves, so peaceful and serene. The morning has elapsed and hunger has increased, so we board the bus to Sawasdee (Chinese) Restaurant. On the way encountering a funeral procession for a prominent monk.

Funeral procession with speakers blaring

Funeral procession with speakers blaring

Thankfully, I have encountered a "foodie friend" in my group and we are always up for experimenting with the latest fare. This place seems quite popular with the locals and I am eye balling everything that comes out of the kitchen. A yellowish blob about the size of the "Bricka" we just visited has been served up on a platter to our neighboring table. I must follow it!!! Using sign language, I try to express that I am interested in what food item has just landed like a giant space ship and made a home with them. They kindly grab a spoon and offer me a bite. No doubt, we are ordering it for the sheer look alone. The proprietor's grand-daughter hears our jubilation of the dish and offers us a front row spot in the kitchen to watch ours be prepared, no way! Move over Anthony Bourdain you got nothing on us; Mark and Trina are in the house.

The Bricka of Egg

The Bricka of Egg

Lotus Root Soup, yes the same lotus root that was used for weaving at Inle Lake can also be eaten

Lotus Root Soup, yes the same lotus root that was used for weaving at Inle Lake can also be eaten

Delving Inside...

Delving Inside...

Immediately jumping up from our seats we follow to the kitchen, you would think the grandest tourist attraction in Burma was lurking in the back room. The first tiny man we encounter is whipping egg whites so fast with a whisk that the froth is duplicating like I have never seen in my life. The restaurant's grand-daughter (tour guide) explains the process. "It is ONLY 8 egg whites, no water, no salt, nothing". Got it. Moving on to the WOKS that you could bathe a toddler in, we encounter the literal wood burning stove, continually being stoked by fellow crew of the kitchen. The smoke swirling and the burning aroma adds to the romance of the event. The egg whites that have been hand formed into the shape and size of a small soccer ball gets plopped into the bubbling oil of the baby bathtub wok. The keeper of the wok ladles large spoonfuls of the grease while spinning the egg blob around with another small shovel shaped utensil, allowing it to cook fully. As I wonder where the canary type color I saw previously at the table comes from, the grand-daughter emerges with 8 beaten egg yolks in a bowl. The AH-HA moment is when the yolks are poured over the simmering egg whites producing that spring daffodil hue. Now we get it. More oil is slathered over the bobbing yellow egg boat as the cooking continues. In the other corner of the kitchen, the sauce (peas other veggies and meat) has been prepared and is being handed on a platter to the wok master for the egg christening. Of course, with all the hype and our cameras taking both video and stills of the momentous occasion, we must know the name of this incredible dish. So I turn to the grand-daughter and ask. Her response, "SPECIAL OF EGG!" I can feel the corners of my mouth curling upward like the Grinch and I am anticipating the laughter from Mark as I hear us both repeat the name in unison with a smile, "SPECIAL OF EGG".  What else could it be called?  Since we are constantly on the look out for the humor in the myriad of ways things are labeled or said, this makes the TOP of the list. Not to mention the incredible viewing court side that brings our foodie experience to the pinnacle of the pagoda!

Leaving the SPECIAL OF EGG restaurant, our group proceeds to another special place that I had been wanting to see, the U Bein Bridge. Probably the most photographed of any Mandalay attraction, this bridge built around 1850 by U Bein is famous for being made out of teak wood. It is the oldest and longest of this type of bridge in the world, spanning 1.2 kilometers across the somewhat shallow Taungthaman Lake. Fishermen stand in the water from as low as their ankles to as high as their waists trying to bring in the catch of the day.

The expansive U Bein Bridge with its skeletal like frame

The expansive U Bein Bridge with its skeletal like frame

Fishing

Fishing

The locals use it daily traversing back and forth by foot or bike and it serves as an aging easy passageway as long as you pay attention not to step where there is no board.

A little bumpy ride

A little bumpy ride

Watch your step, unless you would like to cool off with a swim

Watch your step, unless you would like to cool off with a swim

Brightly colored boats propelled by sheer paddling strength (think Italian Gondolier of Burma with two oars) offer tourists an up close view underneath the bridge as well as a mid lake panorama. I traveled by one of these to snap incredible silhouettes of the seemingly entangled menagerie of rafters.

All Aboard

All Aboard

Cris cross paddling with 2 oars. Remarkably strong as the boats carry up to 6 people (small Burmese that is) and 3 if  Big Americans

Cris cross paddling with 2 oars. Remarkably strong as the boats carry up to 6 people (small Burmese that is) and 3 if  Big Americans

As I said, 6 small Burmese

As I said, 6 small Burmese

U Bein Bridge, Mandalay viewed by boat

U Bein Bridge, Mandalay viewed by boat

The weathered rafters almost look like they could be faux bois

The weathered rafters almost look like they could be faux bois

A tree of any type always gets my attention; this one still seemed alive by the interesting extending branches, although it was not.

A tree of any type always gets my attention; this one still seemed alive by the interesting extending branches, although it was not.

Look up

Look up

Stopping halfway across the lake under the bridge, I disembarked to ascend on a hodgepodge stair way in order to walk the rest of the bridge by foot. The remarkable sites and people I encountered was worth the precarious promenade. Strolling, I spotted dried fish for sale as well as women asking for money to release the baby owls they kept caged in wooden crates.  Apparently, the owls are trained to return after taking a brief flight, starting the quest for another "Freer of the birds" once again.

I am assuming that these are the fish from Taungthaman Lake after they have been dried

I am assuming that these are the fish from Taungthaman Lake after they have been dried

Baby Owls awaiting flight

Baby Owls awaiting flight

Shortly after starting to walk, I felt a gentle tap on the shoulder by a young crimson wearing monk wanting to practice his English. It was an amazing conversation and the breathtaking vista with all the inquisitive faces passing in the warm air, made another lasting Myanmar impression in my mind and uplifted my countenance.

My English Practicing Monk

My English Practicing Monk

One of the vistas looking out, while standing on the U Bein Bridge

One of the vistas looking out, while standing on the U Bein Bridge

Good Bye U Bein Bridge, you are lovely with all your nuances

Good Bye U Bein Bridge, you are lovely with all your nuances

The last stop of the day was to the moat people, a group that has been helped by one of our Burmese translators for many years. These impoverished people do the work on the moat surrounding the palace. They are so joyful and welcoming in spite of their living conditions. In meeting with such glorious individuals, I am always reminded of the quantity and quality of things (water, toilets, kitchens etc...) that we take for granted and still seem to find time to mumble and grumble at the lavishness we bathe in continually.

 Beauty tied together with a red bow

 Beauty tied together with a red bow

Moat People Dwellings

Moat People Dwellings

Children of the moat

Children of the moat

Scootering through the dust and debris

Scootering through the dust and debris

Cuteness holding on to the bamboo wall

Cuteness holding on to the bamboo wall

The Moat People's living conditions

The Moat People's living conditions

She is definitely a PEARL of great price!

She is definitely a PEARL of great price!

So much love received from these precious ones

So much love received from these precious ones

The tour bus heading for the hotel for the last time provided a scenic ride, complete with following a caravan parade of decorated oxen and the brilliant glowing embers of a Mandalay sunset

Burma 2014 1827.JPG

Many memorable evenings were spent on the aerial rooftop of the Ayarwaddy River Hotel. So, it was only fitting that our group's final night before unraveling to other parts of the country and the world should be enjoyed elevated above Mandalay as we were all floating and soaring high in the air for time spent here and the genuine friendships that were made. There was a caressing breeze that lingered like a hug around our table while sitting in the fluorescent glow of lights from the restaurant as the distant echoes of the Buddhist monk's chants hovered hauntingly.  In joy and sadness, we reminisced.  Many very, very, idyllic moments had been shared, how brief yet how permanent.  On this lofty perch (called Burma), the world as I know it flew away and left me better than when I came.  How interesting that I met these magnificent people a mere two weeks ago in an airport.  It's as if in some ways it had been planned long ago by a much grander Divine hand and I was just supposed to show up. I am oh so glad I did.  Our paths of life now diverge, but our souls are knit together for eternity.

The last night on top of the glowing Ayarwaddy River Hotel, sadly saying Tar Tar to one another

The last night on top of the glowing Ayarwaddy River Hotel, sadly saying Tar Tar to one another