Inle Lake in the heart of the Shan State is one of the places I had really been looking forward to enjoying on my Burmese trip, as I am a “Lake Girl” and water is my thing. I started Stand Up Paddle Boarding last summer and I know the steadiness it requires. So I was incredibly intrigued by the Inle Lake fishermen who are known for standing at one end of their wooden craft, leg wrapped around the oar balancing as they row in a peculiar, but graceful, effective manner. Along with maneuvering themselves like tight rope walkers, they throw nets and use conical shaped rattan baskets to fish the second largest lake in Myanmar. I was excited to travel as much of the 45 square miles as possible and everything I saw was spectacular.

The main traffic laden channel that leads to the expansive lake — The main traffic laden channel that leads to the expansive lake

Ready to enter the "INLE ZONE" prepared with Burmese boating hat, chair, life jacket, umbrella & blankie

3 Monks hiding from the rays and 1 sporting a nice shine

At the dock before heading off, local women were selling canvas brimmed hats for 2000 kyat as you stepped down onto the pier. The female version has ties with a split in the back and the males look like a slightly larger version of Gilligan’s. All come in a smattering of fair hues, plain and striped. Although most of us had brought hats, the less than two dollar price tag was hard to pass up. So more than half of our group donned new boating bonnets for our day excursion. One by one we stepped gingerly into the brightly colored bobbing vessels. Within seconds of being seated in our yellow wood slatted chairs, we were off in a whirl. The channel out to the main basin is wide enough for about 5 boats the size of ours to pass easily, and pass they did. Interesting to watch all along the way. Locals carry every kind of cargo imaginable, while monks drape fabric around their clean shaven heads to keep out the sun. Children en masse travel on their water school bus and tourists like us wave a quick hand as we fly by one another. The seats were covered with striped Burmese blankets and we needed them in the brisk early air. The excitement kept building until the channel opened up into the central part of the lake and the one legged paddling fishermen came into view. The boatman seamlessly navigated slowing down to a gentle glide as all cameras came out clicking rapidly to capture the fishermen's silhouetted dance before us. What a unique sight, a one of a kind moment I will never forget.

A move I am not going to attempt on my Stand Up Paddle Board

He offered to sell it to me for 1000 Kyat (basically a buck)

YES, I would have brought his fishing basket back to the States, if it would have fit in the overhead bin.

With the legendary fishermen behind us and the morning sun rising higher, we continued motoring over the open calm water taking in the view of the mountains in the distance. Our caravan of long tail motor skiffs began to meander through narrow waterways lined with bamboo houses perched atop stilts. The maze of canals is endless, as whole villages seem to hang in the air. Everyday activities such as bathing and laundry commence waterside off the banks or on bamboo platforms.

Reminds me of Bora Bora, but Asian Style — Reminds me of Bora Bora, but Asian Style

There are also clusters of thatched roof houses suspended from the serene water that serve as weaving mills. Inle is known for its weaving of the lotus plant and the process is incredible. This is the only part of the world that creates such artisanship. We stopped at such a place and watched as the lotus stem is cut, then pulled apart revealing fine filaments imbedded in the sticky wheel like center. The delicate strings are then removed and rolled on a spindle. Spun into thread, the fibers are a natural cream color, but can also be dyed with the local tree barks in varying shades. The work is labor intensive and must be done by hand. Weavers sit upon classic loom machines moving threads back and forth, as they press bamboo pedals to the floor. The weaving that is produced by the lotus strands is extraordinary, a bit like a linen and raw silk mixture. The lotus flower is associated with the Buddhist religion because centuries ago ladies like these produced the woven fabric robes of the monks from the lotus root. I was planning to buy a very small woven piece until I saw the $300 price tag. Instead, I settled on some traditional Inle Lake woven fisherman pants (which I love) and scarves at a lower price point. The most hilarious part of buying at this water inlet is that you feel as far away as any place on earth and yes, they do take Master Card and Visa. (Which is very novel for all of Burma)

Gooey strings pulled taut from several lotus root centers

Spinning of lotus root strands into thread

The weaving orchestrated by staccato feet on bamboo — The weaving orchestrated by staccato feet on bamboo

Inle Lake Fisherman Pants - Soon to become Pretty Lake Fisherman Pants

Stepping back into our boats and following another myriad of channels, we disembark at the cheroot factory. Upon entering, we watch as three Intha girls sit cross legged on the floor rapidly mixing, rolling, sealing and clipping cheroots. The cheroot is the traditional Burmese cigar with both ends cut flat and the tha-nat leaf filled with a mixture of tamarind, cardamom, star of anise, brown sugar, honey and tobacco. On the porch sat a man chewing the famous betel nut that stains teeth and anything it is spat upon a rusty red. He gave me one of the nuts to investigate and posed beamingly for a pic with the red oozing out between his gums like blood. I now know what betel nut is like up close and personal. The nut is actually called areca and the leaf that is chewed with it is the betel. There is a lime paste that is spread on the leaf as a binder. Later in the trip, a German tourist informed me that the “high” derived from the betel nut is akin to a very mild cocaine effect. Who Knew?

Betel Nut chewing closer than you probably wish

The 6 passenger single file seats of our wooden skiff stretch about 30 feet back to the boatman who hand cranks the motor and steers with a long outstretched propeller. Zig zagging between stilted houses with painted shutters and vibrant laundry flying in the breeze, our boat docks where it was manufactured. The builder informed us that a boat from start to finish costs about $2500.00 U.S. not including the motor and prop. It was interesting seeing the entire construction process, a mixture of ash, lacquer and sawdust are used to fill in the wholes and joints. They are definitely made to motor fast and turn quickly. I would love to have one for my lake back home.

MUCH happier than my face portrays (a Selfie on a speeding skiff with sun in my eyes, not so easy to do) — MUCH happier than my face portrays (a Selfie on a speeding skiff with sun in my eyes, not so easy to do)

The floating gardens are another amazing part of the lake vista. Massive woven mats are laden with dirt and lake seaweed for fertilizer, while bamboo posts anchor them to one another and the lake bottom. The vegetation grows low or supported on trellises. Acres of flowers, vegetables and fruit sway back and forth continuously, as their gardeners float by in dugout canoes tending, pruning and picking. Wonder if I should add a floating garden to my lake front? I guess I could garden via paddle board.

Floating gardens with bamboo stakes keeping them stationary

Lake weeds being gathered to use as fertilizer on the floating gardens

Gives new meaning to "Tending the Garden"

Inle Lake is sanctuary to numerous rare bird species and water fowl, a paradise for bird watchers. As the placard states "You Can Watch Bird". A crazy thing can happen while throttling across this wonderful lake, “Seagulls.” They love to surround the boats and at times you would think they were tied to the hull pulling, as they are able to stay alongside and fly so well. Just watch the video of them being fed, you will then understand.

Yes-you can watch bird, but I better not catch you watching birds

Surprisingly, there are quite a few good eating spots out amid the floating villages and our gang arrived at one. The Royal Palace Restaurant, “Delicious to the last piece!” as the sign says. The complimentary appetizer of fried tofu was terrific, similar to being served tortilla chips at your local Mexican establishment. I was happy to learn that this item is on the breakfast buffet at our resort. I will be munching again tomorrow. My favorite dish of the several I tried was the mallow leaves adorned with red peppers and garlic in a sauce that reminds me of a childhood Moo Goo Gai Pan that I adored. Secondly, I ordered the eggplant salad it had a refreshing taste laced with red onions and sesame seeds in an interesting vinaigrette. The tempura battered vegetables are the best of the trip, covered in a light flavored coating and just the right amount of crunch.

Royal Palace truly "Delicious to the last piece!"

View from the outdoor patio of restaurant, interesting electrical towers

Lunch in our tummies and ready for the river excursion ahead. This part of the scenic cruise was like an amusement park log ride on steroids, with much, much better scenery and no getting doused at the end. As you travel the Indein River, lush fields peek out from each corner of the landscape, revealing woven cone hatted ladies working in rice fields with teetering baskets dangling from their shoulders. Drifting along the peaceful waters brings bright shining pagodas on the left, women washing on the right, bamboo bridges up above and water buffalo partially submerged below the surface. Surrounded by beauty everywhere, village after village gently pushing you further, urging you on to see sights never seen.

Bamboo bridge walkway, shaded by branches full of tamarind pods spinning in the air. Beyond the bank trellised gardens

School boys in Myanmar Green uniforms walking home

Towing the Inle way, seven hooked together

Pagodas peeking out clinging to the banks edge

Our long tail tied up at the Village of Inn Daine Khone. The covered ornate columned walkway with plateauing steps, houses numerous souvenir stalls with locals selling all items INLE. Stopping occasionally to peruse the wares of shell made spoons and the like, our group continued onward to the stupas set before us. Shwe Inn Dain Pagoda sits at the peak of the hill with over a thousand stupas scattered around its base. These Buddhist pillars are some of the oldest in Myanmar dating to the 13 century period. The stone work after so many years is still intricate and beautiful, even in its gentle eroding. The (porcelain like) white spires fade to shaded coppery brown or steel grey as plants grow up through cracks and only crumbled arms and bodies remain where Buddha faces once peered out. Moving toward the summit of the Pagoda are more modern cylindrical golden spires rising in the air. Some look as if they have been turned on a potter’s wheel or carved on a wood lathe, all adorned with chiming bells surrounding their tops. These “heaps” (the definition of a stupa) are where relics and Buddhist monks ashes are placed. A long trek descending through the market place again, now I am back inside the boat and have opened one of the provided umbrellas. It was my weak attempt to feel like Katherine Hepburn in the African Queen. Thankfully our boat never got mired in the mud and leeches were not part of the equation, but outrageous fun was definitely had by all.

Standing on the bamboo dock at the Village of Inn Daine Khone looking back on the river we just traversed

Burma is Built & Bound by Beaucoup Bamboo

Girls working while male overseer watches (very common)

Stupas that look like they could be from another world

Spires & Bells shimmering in the cloud free sky

One reason they call it the Golden Land. I prefer to call it Golden because of the glowing magnificent people

There are not enough post cards to adequately portray this enclave called Inle Lake, with all the wonders I have feebly tried to describe and the ones yet still unseen by my eyes. The pleasant soothing waters framed by cascading mountains pull you deeper with each glance. The discovery continues with every turn of the bow and the exploration leaves you feeling that this adventure belongs only to you. With the exhilaration comes sadness that you may never experience it again. This lake that has been left virtually untouched for 100 years is changing, as the tourist tide begins. Will it all be for the better? Doubtful. Unfortunately this day of living like Isak Dinesen or Beryl Markham is drawing to a close. I have always wanted to be on such an exploit and today was one of those remarkable, overflowing days that I will cherish and keep as a treasure always. This without a doubt is SAVORING at its absolute finest.

Sadly leaving Inle Lake in body, but not in Spirit

Rowing with one leg around a paddle

Sidebar Title (H3)

So Live

Unearthing the Savored Life